Plastic-derived leathers, such as PVC and conventional faux leather, have significant ecological drawbacks. PACT, a Cambridge-based biomaterials startup founded in 2020 by Dr Yudí Ding, a Cambridge-trained organic chemist and CEO, alongside COO Niels Ramay, a physicist and engineer, is tackling this environmental and sustainability challenge in the fashion and materials industries.
Its solution is Oval, a patented collagen-based biomaterial derived from natural, cosmetic-grade collagen enriched with herbal extracts and oils. Oval offers the tactile luxury, suppleness, and aesthetics of traditional leather but with a vastly reduced environmental footprint, using less water and cutting CO₂ emissions significantly compared to plastic alternatives.
Earlier this week, the company raised £16 million in a Series A funding round led by Forbion and HV Capital. This investment fuels a new 20-meter pilot production line at PACT’s Cambridge headquarters, enabling scale-up of commercial roll-to-roll manufacturing to supply leading luxury maisons and expand into footwear, interiors, and automotive sectors.
The founders’ mission is to combine scientific innovation with design excellence to create beautiful, environmentally friendly materials that meet the exacting standards of global luxury brands while enabling broad industry adoption. Dr Ding highlights that beyond lab innovation, the critical challenge is scaling sustainably, which PACT addresses by partnering with established manufacturers and leveraging its pilot line.
Oval’s unique selling points include its natural origins, industrial scalability, designer-friendly versatility (printable, embossable, colour-customisable), and seamless integration into existing textile manufacturing processes.
PACT competes with companies such as VTT, Ecovative, Polybion, Tomtex, Gozen, and Spiber, which produce alternative biomaterials derived from fungi, plants, and proteins. However, Oval is unique for its collagen-based construction, long-term durability, and scalability, making it stand out in the growing market for sustainable leather alternatives.
Looking forward, PACT aims to accelerate the commercial deployment of Oval worldwide, develop new biomaterial innovations, and lead the transition towards sustainable, nature-inspired materials that redefine performance, aesthetics, and environmental responsibility across industries.
